Got the Starting Clamp ... How do you use it?

[eagle]

Hi,

I just got the Starting Clamp from ATS.

I will use this to start the crosses. As far as actually clamping the string, is there a "right" way to clamp the string? The reason I ask is that the clamp head is shaped as shown below:

http://www.atssports.com/ats/assets/product_images/MPG_XL.jpg

It looks as though you can thread a string through the holes and that there is a "canal" where a string can be guided from hole to hole.

Sorry if the query sounds really stupid. I just want to learn if there is a special trick to using the starting clamp. :)

Thanks,
eagle

[ericb]

To use as a regular starting clamp, you clamp the string between the dusted surfaces. If you want to use it as a jumper (in cases where there is not enough string to reach your tensioner), that's when you use the holes in the side. I'll try to post some pictures later if this is not clear.

Cheers,

Eric

[eagle]

Hi eric,

Pls do post pix on using it as a jumper. That intrigues me.

r,
eagle

[ericb]

Ok - I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow and post them later in the afternoon.

Cheers,

Eric

[ericb]

Ok eagle, here the clamp is used as a starter for the mains:

http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~ericb/starting_clamp/starting_clamp1.jpg

here it is used as a jumper:

http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~ericb/starting_clamp/starting_clamp2.jpg

http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~ericb/starting_clamp/starting_clamp_jumper.jpg

and here it is used as a starter for the crosses:

http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~ericb/starting_clamp/starting_clamp_crosses.jpg

In the last example, I string all of the crosses down to the throat, tie-off, and then return to the head to tension once again, clamp, remove the starting clamp, and tie-off.

Sorry I took longer than promised - Christmas got in the way :)

Cheers,

Eric

[domo]

Has anybody else experienced poly string sliding thrue a litle bit

[eagle]

Thanks eric!

A picture or pictures in this case is worth a thousand words.

I'm still unclear about using it as a jumper but hopefully I won't encounter anything like that.

r,
eagle

[David Pavlich]

The purpose of the jumper is to allow the last main or cross to be tensioned that is too short to reach the tension head. That happens when we have a brain cramp and cut the string too short. :confused:

Loop a piece of scrap string as shown in the picture (good pix, by the way and a familiar looking machine ;) ) and then place the short string sticking out of the frame in the starting clamp jaws. Now take both string end that are looped aroung the clamp and place them in the tension head of the machine and tension. Clamp off and voila! It's a saved set of strings.

David

[eagle]

Aha!!!!

Now I understand. :)

Thanks Dave.

r,
eagle

[moosryan]

what are the advantages of a starting clamp vs. a starting knot

[David Pavlich]

The biggest advantage comes when stringing gut at higher tension. I've had starting knots pop with gut. Remember, gut hates kinks and a knot is nothing more than a customized kink. Using a starting clamp eliminates this problem.

And when you tension the string to pull off the clamp, up the tension to compensate for the loss during tie off. You use a standard tie off and it looks better.

David

[David Pavlich]

You're not going to believe this...I popped a string yesterday just like you have. I was stringing a new Yonex RDX300 Super mp demo. The first thing I did was look at the grommet/bumper face. It looked rough to me. As a reference, I had strung 3 other Yonex demos with the same string, same tension and same clamp without a problem.

So...I lubed an awl and polished up the grommet holes of the first few mains at the head, made a couple of power pads and went ahead. No problem.

Here's a suggestion for you. Lube up an awl and open the first two or three main grommet holes before you start to string. This will smooth out the edges and lube the inside of the grommets. It might help.

As far as the explanation from SP, I'm a bit suspicious. I strung between 800 and 900 frames on my DG and never had that problem. The settings I suggested for string types are the typical settings that I used.

Also keep in mind that a Sensor has no speed settings. When it pulls, it does so in a hurry and discounting the above anomoly, I have no problem with strings popping due to the speed of the pull.

Try my suggestion. It certainly can't hurt.

David

[eagle]

Hi,

Thanks again for the help.

I used the starting clamp for the crosses so that I use the standard double half hitch vs. the starting knot.

I also got to use the clamp as a jumper for kicks. It worked great.

Thanks again.

r,
eagle

[eagle]

Hi,

I've posted info and pictures on the starting clamp.

http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/startingclamp.htm

Thanks for the help.

r,
eagle

[kwick]

Hi Eagle,

Thanks for the pics mate but a couple of things weren't clear for me from your description although I'm sure you probably have them covered elsewhere.

Firstly, you say you pull tension against your starting clamp for the first few crosses. I wouldn't pull directly against the clamp on the top cross but instead weave the top 2 crosses and do a double pull from the long side. If you pull directly against the starting clamp, you risk it slipping and damaging the string.

Secondly, you don't mention it specifically but I assume when you come back to tie off your loose tail, before you reposition your floating clamp, you reapply tension to the loose end (with the starting clamping hanging on) and then replace your floating clamp ? Then you tie off - correct ?

Just wasn't clear to me from the description on your site.

Personally, I would add 4 kgs on the first double pull and also when you reapply tension on the loose tail. Just don't forget to remove the 4 kgs for the rest of the crosses. Then, add 4 kgs again on the last 2 pulls before tying off at the throat.

Cheers,

kwick.

[eagle]

Hi kwick,

I string like I normally string using what I learned from the video at sptennis. Instead of using a starting knot to anchor the end of the string, the temporary anchor point is the starting clamp. So, yes, I apply tension to the clamp on the first string then clamp the tensioned string with a flying clamp. I then move on to the next couple of crosses. Then I remove the starting clamp. Then create the Pro-knot. After that, I do the next cross and move the flying clamp 1 from crosses 1 & 2 to crosses 3 & 4.

http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/images/clampsequence.gif

I'm not a pro so hopefully I didn't screw up the procedure too badly. I'd appreciate any inputs though. So, if I'm really way off, I need to get my process realigned.

Thanks,
eagle

[Gaines Hillix]

A starting clamp (also known as a bridge clamp) can be one of the handiest tools in your tool tray. Depending on your stringing technique, you may need one at various points through the stringing process.

For example, even before you get to your machine, you can use two starting clamps -- one at each end of the string -- to pre-stretch the string. Once you start stringing, if your machine clamps let the string slip a little when you are pulling the first main string, you can mount the starting clamp right behind your machine clamp to eliminate slippage. After you finish the mains on a two-piece string job, you can often use a starting clamp instead of a starting knot on the first cross to avoid the possibility of pulling the starting knot through the grommet. Then, after you have installed the first three crosses, you can re-tension the first cross (removing the starting clamp in the process), and use a tie-off knot instead. If, on the other hand, you are using an around-the-world pattern, you may find that at some point you need an "extra" clamp, and the starting clamp will do the trick. Speaking of knots, you can use a starting clamp as you would use a pair of pliers, when cinching up knots. Finally, if you get to the end of the crosses (or the mains, for that matter), and find that although you have enough string to tie off, you haven't allowed enough string to reach the tension head, you can grab the end of the string with the starting clamp, and then run a piece of scrap string through the holes on the outside of the starting clamp to the tension head.

One can also be used when starting the mains. Instead of using one of the machine's clamps put a starting clamp on one of the center mains on the outside of the frame and then pull tension on the other center main and clamp off. Now pull tension on the string with the starting clamp on it, remove the starting clamp and clamp off with the other machine clamp as close to the inside of the frame as you can and then proceed with the rest of the mains. This way you are always putting the machine clamp on a tensioned string and not having to fool around with getting the first one on an untensioned string.

[moosryan]

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=39191

[kwick]

Hi Eagle,

Your pictures are great but if I understood correctly, I think there is a problem. I don't have the benefit of your video so I may be wrong myself.

In picture sequence #1, you clamp the top string on the outside of the frame with your starting clamp (OK) and then pull tension directly on that string from the other side. Then you put on your first flying clamp and hold tension against a scrap string? How does that work? To my thinking, this is a No-No and unnecessary.

I'm no pro either and may be well off the mark myself but I would position the starting clamp as you have but weave the top two crosses and then pull the tension against 2 strings (with +4 kgs) from the same side as your starting clamp. Then you apply flying clamp 2 and continue as normal.

Now, in picture sequence #4, you appear to tie off your pro knot with the flying clamp #2 still in place which suggests you have not reaplied tension to the loose end. Is that correct because I would suggest that that is also a No-No and would lead to drastic low tension on your top cross string.

What I would do is remove the flying clamp #2 from the top 2 cross strings 1 & 2 but leave the starting clamp holding the tension. I would then add +4 kgs above my regular cross tension and reapply the tension on the loose end with the starting clamp still attached (but carefully). With tension reapplied from the machine head, I then carefully, remove the starting clamp from the loose end and then reinstall the flying clamp #2. Then you tie off with your pro knot and you keep a better tension.

I would be interested in others comments because maybe what I am doing is incorrect. Like I said, I'm no pro either.

If I've misunderstood your method, I apologise in advance.

cheers,

kwick

[eagle]

Hi kwick,

I learned how to do the crosses through the sptennis.com videos by the owner John Bassili. :) Below is the link:
http://www.sptennis.com/stringer.asp#eStringer

You'll see that midway through the video, he starts the crosses with the starting knot. He then pulls on the first string and with a flying clamp secures the first string to the stringbed. Since the flying clamp is designed to hold two strings, he shows in the video that you have to use a scrap string to fill the 2nd channel of the flying clamp. Since I have a stringer with flying clamps, this is what I do.

BTW, I increase the tension as recommended by the pros here for the first and last two crosses to compensate for any drawback/loss of tension when the flying clamps are released. So the first and 2nd crosses are set and clamped to higher tension.

Hope that helps some.

Thanks,
eagle

[kwick]

Hi Eagle,

I looked at the video and I understand that flying clamps need two strings but I just don't like holding the tension on the first cross by clamping against the mains. There's got to be room for massive tension loss there ! Sorry, it just looks like a crazy thing to do.

IMO, whether using a starting knot or starting clamp, it's better to weave the top two crosses and double pull from the second cross. I'm interested to have the opinion from the rest of you on this point.

You also seemed to miss my other point of re-tensioning the loose tail end (the one with the starting clamp on it) before tying off at the start of your crosses. Before removing the starting clamp and tying off, you have to re-tension the loose tail first, then re-clamp it with your flying clamp, then tie off. You can't re-tension the tail if you still have the flying clamp sitting on the top two crosses, just inside the frame right next to the starting clamp. Was that clear or not ?

I see why Jaypro thinks my explanations are sometimes incomprehensible. I think I agree.......

later,

kwick

[Gaines Hillix]

Hi Eagle,

I looked at the video and I understand that flying clamps need two strings but I just don't like holding the tension on the first cross by clamping against the mains. There's got to be room for massive tension loss there ! Sorry, it just looks like a crazy thing to do.

IMO, whether using a starting knot or starting clamp, it's better to weave the top two crosses and double pull from the second cross. I'm interested to have the opinion from the rest of you on this point.

You also seemed to miss my other point of re-tensioning the loose tail end (the one with the starting clamp on it) before tying off at the start of your crosses. Before removing the starting clamp and tying off, you have to re-tension the loose tail first, then re-clamp it with your flying clamp, then tie off. You can't re-tension the tail if you still have the flying clamp sitting on the top two crosses, just inside the frame right next to the starting clamp. Was that clear or not ?

I see why Jaypro thinks my explanations are sometimes incomprehensible. I think I agree.......

later,

kwick


kwick, makes sense to me. :D On the point about how to deal with the first cross, IMO it's o.k. to do it either way. The mains are pretty stiff that close to the hoop and I don't think there's really that much lost tension there. And the second cross is tensioned as well, so it can't be any worse than double pulling the first two crosses.

[eagle]

Thanks Gaines.

I take it then that I'm not too far off. :)

r,
eagle