Which Machine to buy. Please let me know your thoughts

[Dubya1976]

Hi,

I am looking for some insight on which Stringing Machine would be best. So I have a couple of questions.

What is the difference between the three types of Machines? (Drop weight, Spring, Electronic) Is one better than another?

I have a budget of 500$ and would like to get a machine that is the best for my money.

Please let me know your thoughts!!!

Thank You,

Randall

[Gaines Hillix]

In that price range I'd recommend the Gamma X-6 FC, Alpha Revo 4000 or Laserfibre ECO w/dual action fixed clamps. IMO, the part of the machine that makes the biggest difference is the clamps. Fixed clamps are almost always better than flying clamps. Crank machines will produce a stringbed stiffness that is about 10% lower than a drop weight or electronic machine with constant pull. Either system is good, they're just different.

[Jay Cee]

Hi Randall,

I agree with Gaines, but would like to add a couple of thoughts concerning the clamps, which are certainly one of the most important parts of the machine, and where the biggest differences can be found in conception, quality and the end result when stringing :

1.) Generally dual fixed clamps (double action or single action) are better than flying clamps, because flying clamps are often cheap and inefficient and supplied with the cheapest machines. When flying clamps are very well made, for example the flying clamps from Stringway/Laserfibre are exceptionally good and the quality of the string job with these clamps can be better than the average quality fixed clamps which tend to dominate the US$500 segment of the stringing machine market. :p

2.) A machine with fixed clamps is much heavier and more expensive than a machine with flying clamps. Often the machines use the same cradle, in that case the difference in weight is not that important, but when using flying clamps it is also possible to use a lighter cradle, (see the Laserfibre TR, the travel version is very light and very good to string with) the tensionning and blocking of the strings remains within the stringbed, flying clamps use the opposite direction of the tension on ajacent strings and by clamping 2 strings together the tension is neutralised, there is no stress on the cradle. With fixed clamps, only 1 string is clamped and the clamp is fixed to the cradle, therefore the tension is supported by the clamp and maintained by the cradle, which is of course supporting the stress. The cradle needs to be rigid and the fixation of the clamps needs to be efficient and easy to use with as little effort as possible. That is easier said than done. :o

What you need to do is to determine firstly how and when you need to string, if weight is not a problem, go for dual fixed clamps, and even better take a floor stand as well, it's far better to string on a free standing machine than on a table (but you need the place to store it).

Drop weights can be very good, but so can crank machines, and Gaine's advice that they under tension about 10% is correct, this is not a problem as long as you add on the 10% if a client quotes you his tension requirements when strung on a constant pull (drop weight or a "pro") machine. :)

I am less convinced by cheaper electric machines, but that's just a personal appreciation, there are many home stringers who are delighted with their machines and they believe that they are doing a good job on them, so thats fine with me. It keeps the market alive for the professional stringers who are really good at stringing racquets. ;)

My personal choice is the Laserfibre ECO, but with fixed clamps it's not in your price range, go for the same machine with flying clamps, the price is about right and the machine is perfect, and once your learn how to string with the appropriate method, this machine is a real pleasure to string with. :cool:
Cheers,
JC

[Dubya1976]

Thanks Jay and Gaines!

[dakels]

I have a few questions on this. Everyone seems to say that the spring machines do not give as much tension or accurately as other constant pull types. Why can't you just calibrate a few lbs higher on the spring tension machine? Would that not be a consistent way to compensate for the difference?

I am ready to purchase a Eagnas Flex 940 from good reviews I have heard (Several online and 2 positive reviews from people I know). While Eagnas seems to be a terrible company as far as customer support goes, right now my budget is a bit tight from moving and looking to get a decent upright. I am looking to play alot again and I break strings about every 3-5 hours. If I have a stringer I will probably use 17g (instead of 15L or 16) but will probably break every 2-3 hours (need to research strings too).

If I like the machine I may keep it for a few years. If I dont like it I would probably look for it to carry me through the rest of the year then sell it and buy a new machine next spring, thus I am not overly concerned about spending more money right now for a much better machine, but of course I want to know if it's the best upright I can get for $400 range, preferably cheaper. Honestly, because I would possibly look to buy a better machine in under a year, I would just avoid a purchase now but the only convenient place to get my racquets strung costs $35-45 (but they are the best -RPNY). Even at $25 (which is normal for me at the place I used to string with fairly cheap strings), 3-4 times a week is painful on the wallet (not to mention 8-10 cans of balls + membership + shoes which last me 1-2 month, etc) Also, it's not terribly hard for me to pop 2 racquets in a long day of tennis. This means I have to wait a few days to play again (Only have 2 racquets right now 1 spare diff model, all others are broken). I find it funny that alot of non serious people consider tennis a cheap sport... My costs during intense play (15-20 hours/week) is about $100-120/week (in stringing and balls alone) not including court costs and racquets frames and clothes. Most of the people I play with experience these costs too, some worse if they use natural gut (most of the guys I know that use gut are sponsored though, and gut seems to last longer).

Anyways I am babbling. Thanks for any advice.

[Gaines Hillix]

dakels, users of crank machines are sort of caught between a rock and a hard place, so to speak, when it comes to tension setting and compensating or not compensating for the difference in stringbed stiffness. One could do as you suggested and recalibrate the machine 10% above the normal reference tension. However, you would then be faced with reducing it by 10% when someone brought you a frame that was usually strung on a crank machine that hadn't been readusted. IMO, it's best to leave it alone and always ask what kind of machine was used to string the frame when a new customer brings you a racquet. If you only string for yourself it really doesn't matter. You'll soon find the tension you like best on your machine/frame(s).

[M0rgan77]

Go with the Laser Fibre Eco :)