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Holabird Sports
Old 2005-01-23, 23:33   #1
moosryan
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Default jay cee method

OK I'm thinking of stringing my next stick with the jay cee method, and i'm wondering if there is anything more to it than:

1) I normally string at 57 lbs, instead, this time string mains at 55, and crosses at 59.

2) Before tying a knot, tension 2 strings before it 8 lbs higher.

3) Instead of tying off on the last main, string the first cross, then tie off.

4) Use two pieces.

I should add i have an ms200tt with single action clamps (ml100 for you stringway guys).

thanks a lot, moos.
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Old 2005-01-24, 23:09   #2
ericb
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Default Re: jay cee method

One thing I don't see in your description is to push down (hard) on the strings after tying off the mains, going from the outside to the middle. Use your thumbs, and press down the outer string from each side, then the next one in, etc., all the way to the middle strings. This helps bed the knots, and also distributes the tension evenly. It makes a racquet to feel great from the beginning, instead of after hitting for an hour.

Let us know what you think after you've strung your stick and played with it.

Cheers,

Eric
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Old 2005-01-25, 04:39   #3
moosryan
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Default Re: jay cee method

wouldn't that make it lose tension?
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Old 2005-01-25, 06:11   #4
Jay Cee
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Default Re: jay cee method

@ Moos,

Eric has given you exactly the same advice that I would have given you, he just got in faster than me.

In fact, by applying this technique you pick up the slack and push it progressively to the centre of the string bed. Of course this makes the centre softer, but also gives you better comfort and gives you more speed on the ball. The biggest advantage is the stability in the tension. There is no more slack to migrate towards the centre (this is the main cause of loss of tension during the first hour or 2 of play) instead the strings settle in after about 10 minutes of warm up, then they stay constant for about 4-6 hours play for a very good player, and several weeks or even months for the average club player.

With high performance durable strings with great playability, the loss of tension is what limits the durability of the strings. Generally you cut them out before they break due to the loss of control (cause loss of tension). With an average synthetic gut string which is nowhere near as strong, the strings break after a couple of hours play (at the most, for a good player) so loss of tension is not so much of a problem.

Even so, if you apply my method to a full restring for a syngut, string it in 2 pieces and apply the same rules, this will allow you to lower the tension a little, get better power, better control, more comfort and it will play better, longer.

The only problem is to find the right combination of tension for you. If the tension is too high, you will play short - therefore you have to hit harder to get the right "natural" ball length. By lowering the tension by 2lbs you will add about 1 yard to the length of your ball when hitting the same way, and vice versa : if your ball length tends to be a bit too long, by increasing the tension by 2lbs you can shorten it by about a yard.

You should get your tensions right, so that when you play well you know that when you hit the ball exactly the way you should, then it will stay just inside the court. That builds confidence in your game and the results will improve accordingly. This benefit is only applicable if the tension stability is constant. If your strings lose 4lbs tension during the first hour of play then you are compensating the way you play all the time, you need to adapt your game to the tension in your strings.

If the best players in the world can't live with this, why would an average player be more capable to handle these variations in performance during a match? In fact very few players are good enough to adapt their game as required, that's why we make so many mistakes, we tend to "overplay" towards the end of the game (the adrenalin effect??). The truth is that with the progressive loss of tension the ball length gets longer and longer, the control is reduced and the mistakes are more frequent. When combined with physical and mental fatigue, you have all the elements required to lose the game. Why not try to improve your chances of winning. It's easy, and it's up to you, nobody else.

Think about, try to find the right tension for you, you will find far more pleasure in your game and you will beat players who have always beaten you in the past. You don't believe me?

Try it and see if you can prove to me that I am wrong. Then we will have something to talk about, because so far I've always been right.

Cheers,
JC
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Old 2005-01-25, 13:20   #5
Hawkeye2
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Default Re: jay cee method

Hi Jay Cee,

I seem to have missed this one :

3) Instead of tying off on the last main, string the first cross, then tie off.

Where can I find your explanations on this one (I'm sure there are in a thread but I can't find it right now, Link ?!).

Thank You !

Bye
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Old 2005-01-26, 00:57   #6
moosryan
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Default Re: jay cee method

@ jaycee: thanks mate.

@hawk: instead of tying off after the last main...pretend as if you're starting a 1 piece job and do the first cross...but then tie off after the first cross.

my only question is: doesn't that sort of hurt the logic of the fact the we're trying to string top to bottom when we do two piece?
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Old 2005-01-26, 05:34   #7
Jay Cee
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Default Re: jay cee method

@ Moos,

The logic is minimising the loss of tension on the last main string, especially when using flying clamps. A flying clamp really twists a lot on the last main ant ther is no way to recuperate the loss of tension between the clamp and the knot.

With the Stringway flying clamps which are quite narrow (9mm) I couldn't really solve the problem on Head Tour series racquets because of the wide space between the last cross strings. I asked Stringway to make me a much larger flying clamp, they doubled the the space between the jaws and with this 18mm clamp finishing the crosses efficiently is now possible. I have been testing this clamp dailly since 6 months and am very satisfied with the results. The clamp is maintained almost parallel when placed between the last two cross strings under tension, far less twist than on the mains and therefore far less loss of tension.

The whole concept is based on the objective of being able to obtain precise and constant stringing on a flying clamp machine, which generally is not really good enough simply because of the loss of tension on the tie off for the mains. As I prefer 2 piece stringing, this problem is twice as bad and I felt that it was necessary to find a solution.

The solution is now available, with the additional extra-large flying clamp I can confidently say that by finishing the mains on a cross string it is definitely possible to obtain results that are at least comparable to those obtained on a good machine with dual fixed clamps.

The obvious advantage is that a machine with flying clamps can be much lighter and easier to take with you on when travelling than a machine with fixed clamps. This should interest quite a lot of players.

These clamps are now available, either individually or in a complete tool kit, on the wavetennis.com website. The site is only in French for the moment, but there will be a full explanation of how to string with my method, lots of photos to show each step, so even if you don't understand french, you will get the idea by looking at the pics. When it is online I will put a link in a follow up posting so that you can go and check it out. If you need any infos, just send me a mail.

Cheers,
JC
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Old 2005-01-26, 23:27   #8
moosryan
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Default Re: jay cee method

so on a fixed clamp machine, is it necessary for me to tie off after the first cross instead of the last main?
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Old 2005-01-27, 00:42   #9
Jay Cee
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Default Re: jay cee method

Hi Moos,

No, with most racquets you can tie off the mains without putting in a cross string before the knot, but a few racquets are much easier to finish each of the mains off on a cross. The Head Prestige Classic and Tour series are really much easier to string this way. Many racquets, Wilson Pro Staffs in particular, where the larger tie off grommet hole is on the 4th or 5th last cross string are more logical to string when each main finishes on a cross. Otherwise the distance between the last cross and the tie off can be excessive.

For me it is also a habit and I really prefer my way, but sometimes it is not appropriate, it can be too complicated or clearly not efficient, in that case give it a miss and look for a better solution, the most important rule to respect is that you should keep the distance between the last clamp before the tie off and the knot to the strict minimum. The shorter te better.

I have a real preference on most of the Volkl racquets, where the mains finish at the top of the frame, to put in a couple of crosses to tie off the mains. Just be sure to tie off the 1st cross on the 1st large grommet and reserve the 2nd large hole to start the knot for the crosses, on the opposite side finish the 2nd cross on the 2nd large grommet hole. That way each tie off is logical. One of the advantages, especially with hybrid strings, is that the head of the string bed is firmer and the risk of breaking a main on an off centered ball is seriously reduced. You may notice with many Volkl frames that the distance between the frame and the 1st cross is often quite large and premature string breakage at the top of the frame is frequent. Just a note of appreciation to Volkl, I find their frames to be particularly agreable to string, the patterns are well thought out, the quality of the grommet strips are excellent, they are very "stringer friendly".

Unfortunately many other sticks on the market can be anything but agreable, and sometimes a real pain in the butt.

Cheers,
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Old 2005-01-28, 14:26   #10
Hawkeye2
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Default Re: jay cee method

Hi Jay Cee,

i really love to string my V÷lkl Tour 10 MP compared to my old Ti Radical !

Just another question :

I adopted your way of increasing the tension 4 kp. (8 lbs.) on the last two strings before a knot.

Using a 4 knot method do you increase the tension on the first crosses after the starting knot ?

I don't think it's necessary because you don't lose tension by tying off but on the other hand you have to tighten the knot...

What's your advice on this one ?!

Thanks alot

Bye

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